Across Empires and Evenings: A 15-Day Journey Through Central & Eastern Europe
Written soon after our June-25 Europe trip. Posting now, as I finally revisit the journey with fresher eyes.
Framing the Journey: Why It Began, and How It Ended
This wasn’t our first time to Europe — but it was the first time we traveled with a story in mind.
Our earlier trip had been a classic — Mykonos, Athens, Rome, Florence, with a dreamy detour to Tuscany. It was beautiful, yes, but it followed the well-trodden path of postcards and travel brochures.
This time, we wanted something more… diverse, personal, and layered. So we built the itinerary around two anchors:
A long-overdue reunion with my college roommate Dilip, now living in Budapest with his wife and their dog.
And a cinematic farewell in Dubrovnik, because we’re both deeply invested Game of Thrones fans, and walking the real-life King’s Landing was non-negotiable.
Everything in between was curated for contrast — imperial cities and sleepy towns, forests and coastlines, street food and home-cooked meals. We weren’t just crossing borders — we were shifting moods, timelines, and terrains.
Chapter 1: Hungary — Friends, Folklore & a Dog Named Derby
Our second Euro trip began not just with wanderlust — but with a reunion. We kicked off in Budapest, drawn not only by its beauty but by something more personal: reconnecting with my college roommate Dilip, whom I hadn’t met in years. He now lives with his wife Anna and their 20-month-old black dog, Derby — hyperactive, loud, and full of personality.
Their apartment, perched on the Pest side facing the Danube, had this timeless, vintage charm. But before we stepped in, Anna had a plan — we first met Derby at the dog park to avoid overwhelming her. Smart move. Even then, she greeted us with excited barks and endless sniffing. But by our fourth night, she'd curled up next to us on the mattress and slept like family.
That first evening, after the dog park, we kicked off with a pub crawl with Dilip and Anna — hours of catching up, laughter, and just the right amount of beer and Palinka. Sometime around midnight, hunger struck and we grabbed a Gyro from a street vendor — warm, greasy, and completely satisfying.
Sunday began slow, with a late breakfast and a supermarket run. Later, Arti and I explored the majestic Parliament area and downtown sights. For lunch, we stumbled upon Circo Pizza, and it turned out to be a real highlight — crispy, flavourful, and easily one of the best pizzas of the trip. That night? An unlimited prosecco river cruise under the glowing city skyline — equal parts romantic and chaotic. We ended the night sloshed and satisfied after devouring some spicy Asian food we randomly stumbled upon.
Monday brought the hangover. So we escaped to Margaret Island — a green oasis in the middle of the Danube. With cool breezes, ice cream, and complete serenity, it was exactly what we needed. Post that, we had lunch at Simon’s Burger — loaded with fries and shakes. It was good, but heavy, and the 30–40 minute wait definitely tested our patience.
That evening, we joined a vampire mystery tour around Buda Castle. It started quirky and fun, but eventually veered into gory territory — we bailed just before our tolerance for tortured noblemen maxed out. Still, walking around Buda Castle and its surroundings left a lasting impression. The scale, the detail — it truly felt like a city that had been crafted with passion and patience.
Tuesday was special. Dilip took the day off. Arti made aloo puri for everyone, adding a dash of home to our Hungarian stay. We wandered through the Great Market Hall, sipped drinks in ruin pubs, and grabbed lunch at a tiny Korean place in the lanes of Pest — name forgotten, taste unforgettable. We wrapped up the night at a bar watching the IPL final — because yes, even in Budapest, cricket had to feature.
We left the next morning at 6 AM with full hearts and sleepy eyes, bound for Vienna.
Budapest was everything we hoped for and more — a city where imperial history and architectural grandeur blend seamlessly with modern-day romance, buzzing nightlife, and soulful quiet corners. And thanks to Dilip, Anna, and Derby, it was the perfect start to the trip.
Chapter 2: Vienna Vibes — Imperial Grandeur & Cannabis Gummy Chaos
We rolled into Vienna around 10 AM, a bit disoriented after navigating public transport — so we took a cab to our hotel. We kicked things off with lunch at a nearby Indian spot - Prosi (spice from home was a welcome start), then headed straight to the Hofburg Palace and its surrounding museums. The Natural History Museum blew us away with its massive, meticulously curated collection.
Later, I indulged in a spontaneous purchase of cannabis gummies – they would come into play soon...
In the evening, we ventured to Prater Park, home to the iconic Riesenrad (Ferris wheel) and Vienna’s oldest amusement area. It blew our minds to realize this was actually the oldest amusement park in the world. I took my gummies early — the world felt extra vibrant. Arti isn’t big on rides, but I dove right into the thrills: the legendary Olympia Looping roller coaster was an absolute high. Between archery games and punching/kicking machines, our evening flew by.
Dinner was at the Schweizerhaus — a massive beer garden inside Prater. Think long wooden tables, steins of chilled beer, and hearty Viennese fare. The perfect local finish to a fun-filled evening.
The next morning, we headed to Schönbrunn Palace and Zoo, the oldest zoo in the world — where yesterday’s museum taxidermy met today’s real animals. Post-lunch, we wandered through Mozart’s old apartment — a strangely moving experience, walking the rooms of someone who lived centuries ago.
Back near the Mercure Westbahnhof, we discovered Pulkautaler Winehouse and Restaurant, a charming family-run pub with a cozy vibe. As we sipped local beer and savoured a rich Viennese dinner, I found myself reflecting on Vienna’s industrial past and present, its stately bones still humming with everyday life.
Vienna feels like the heart of Europe — not just geographically, but in spirit. The scale of its palaces, its curated calm, and the weight of its legacy (we later found out it was occupied post-WWII by four Allied powers until 1955, before declaring permanent neutrality) gave the city an aura that’s both regal and quietly resilient.
This was not just a former imperial capital — it was a living, breathing museum of what Europe once was, and still aspires to be.
Chapter 3: Slovenia — Time Slows Down
Leaving behind the palatial grandeur of Vienna, we entered Slovenia — and instantly, it felt like time had loosened its grip.
Our first brush with this was during a train layover at Jesenice. Tucked in the Julian Alps, the station was quiet, the skies low and moody, and the only real action was at the humble Station Café, where we sipped beer and read a menu that probably hadn’t changed in a decade. We weren’t just entering a new country — we were stepping into a gentler rhythm.
We reached Bled Jezero station next, but with no cab in sight, we ended up dragging our suitcases around half the lake to get to our Airbnb in the town. Annoying? Maybe. Memorable? Definitely. And as the lake came into view — castle, chapel, and mountains standing still in reflection — the effort melted away. We sat by the water until sunset, soaking it all in. Unreal is the only word that comes close.
Dinner was at Sava Hoteli Bled, and the night ended early.
The next day, after a slightly extended checkout, we took a taxi to Ljubljana. We spent the afternoon exploring the old town and its charming bridges. The dragons, we soon learned, weren’t just decor — they were symbols of the city’s mythical protector, drawn from the legend of Jason and the Argonauts.
Then came our longest planned day — a day trip to Piran.
The time-travel vibe only deepened. We wandered Piran’s ancient lanes, chatted with local artists, climbed the bell tower, and even skinny dipped at a nearby beach. Lunch in the town square and ice cream from a beloved local spot rounded out the experience.
But the journey back was long: 2-hour layover in Koper, 2.5 in Trieste, and finally a midnight bus to Ljubljana, reaching around 1:30 AM. Exhausting? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely. But Koper and Trieste can be skipped.
Slovenia, you felt like a page from a slower, older book — and we were lucky to read it.
Chapter 4: Croatia — A Grand Finale by the Sea
The next morning, after a hearty meal, we entered the Plitvice dream. Honestly? Words fall short. Gushing waterfalls, crystal lakes, and paths through nature that felt untouched. It was like walking through an animated painting. Post lunch, we boarded our bus to Split.
In Split, we arrived around 8 PM and had dinner at Rooh, a surprisingly good Indian restaurant. The next morning, we explored Diocletian’s Palace — not just a monument, but a living ruin, with shops, homes, and cafes nestled into its ancient stonework. What made it even more intriguing is the man behind it: Diocletian, the only Roman emperor known to have voluntarily retired. He stepped down in 305 CE and built this palace as his seaside retirement home — a massive, walled complex where the lines between fortress, villa, and city blur completely.
Our guide was witty and sharp, weaving jokes through history, and made sure we didn’t just see the palace — we felt what it might have been like to live inside it.
Split was a reminder that even emperors crave peace by the sea — and honestly, after our pace so far, we could relate.
Then came the final chapter — and it was always going to be Dubrovnik.
As die-hard Game of Thrones fans, the decision was half-made before the itinerary began. And the moment we arrived at our Airbnb — aptly named "The View" — we knew it was the right call. With sweeping vistas over the old city and sparkling Adriatic Sea, it felt like we’d dropped straight into King’s Landing.
We spent the next day exploring the city's iconic walls, walking past GoT filming locations (yes, including the famous stairs). Naturally, we picked up a 100-euro dragon figurine — a souvenir and a statement. For lunch, we dined at Incredible India, a cozy spot offering much-needed spice and comfort.
But it wasn’t just about fantasy. The city itself was stunning — tightly wound stone streets, terracotta rooftops, and those uninterrupted sea views that made every turn worth a pause.
The next day, we boarded a cruise to the Elaphite Islands. The crew was incredibly warm and proactive, making the experience smooth and joyful. Lunch was served onboard — surprisingly delicious and filling. At the final island, Lopud, we hiked across to Šunj Beach, one of the few sandy beaches in the region. There, we swam freely, excited and proud to test out our newly acquired swimming skills.
That evening and the one before ended in the best possible way — Arti’s home-cooked pasta, beer, and a movie on Netflix in our cozy apartment.
On departure day, we checked out around noon and headed to Pod Dubom near the airport — a local gem that served an excellent, unpretentious lunch. Then it was time to fly, with a long layover in Istanbul, already reminiscing.
Epilogue: Looking Back at the Map
As we waited at Istanbul airport for the flight back, I pulled up the map.
We had started with old friends in Budapest and ended in Westeros (ahem, Dubrovnik) — and between the two lay a series of deliberate choices.
This trip was never meant to be a blur of cities. It was a canvas — drawn with contrasts.
Our last Euro trip had been iconic — Greece and Italy, all the big names. But this time, we wanted more variety. More mood shifts. Fewer boxes to tick.
We chose nature, coastal calm, central European quirks, and slower pleasures. We built in reunions, nostalgia, fantasy, food, and free swims.
And it worked.
Because when we look back — it won’t be the number of places we saw. It’ll be the feeling of Derby’s paws beside us in Budapest, or floating on our backs in Šunj beach, or eating aloo puri with the Danube outside the window.
That’s the trip we wanted. And that’s the one we lived.
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